Creative Sanctuary

Archives for September 2018

Old Versailles

By Allison

old versailles architecture

Le Vieux Versailles, or Old Versailles, is not the Royal City’s oldest neighborhood.  The medieval village acquired by King Louis XIII once stood there, but most of it was destroyed in the 17th century.  Occupying the streets to the south-east of the Château, Old Versailles is ideal for meandering and admiring elegant 17th and 18th century architecture:  sober grey and beige stone into which decorative medallions, garland, and faces are carved, cast iron railings and balconies, touches of blue and ochre that draw our eyes up the buildings and to the sky.

For history lovers, a visit to La Salle du Jeu de Paume  is a must.  Constructed by the royal family in 1686, the Salle was one of the first sporting centers in France.  A precursor to tennis, “palm ball” was invented in France and initially played without racquets.  In 1789, 578 Frenchmen met in this spacious room, declared themselves to be the National Assembly, and swore to stay together until they had drafted a constitution for France.  Now known as the “Tennis Court Oath”, this moment was key in the lead up to the French Revolution.  The Salle is open for visits on Tuesday-Sunday afternoons from 2-5:30.  Admission is free.

Relatively new to the neighborhood, the Cour des Senteurs is a calm courtyard dedicated to the art of perfume and upscale shopping.  The Maison des Parfums offers a simple introduction to the history of perfume, and the quiet urban garden offers respite from a day of touring.  Admission is free to both.  Michelin starred restaurant La Table du 11 is located in the courtyard; reservations are essential.

The bustling pedestrian zone rue de Satory offers a number of dining options.  A future post will list some of the rue de Satory’s best restaurants.

Allison’s Tips
Access:  The Vieux Versailles quarter borders the Château property.  Standing in the Place des Armes with your back to the Château, the neighborhood will be behind you and to your right.

Allow 1-3 hours to explore Vieux Versailles.

As you stroll through the area, there is no need to follow a prescribed route.  Rather, let brown tourist signage serve as a loose guide:  La Cour des Senteurs, La Salle du Jeu de Paume, La rue Satory.

Ore: a golden pause

By Allison

spring vegetable tarteletteVisiting the Château of Versailles can make for a long day: lines, crowds, and so much sumptuous history to take in!  For sanity’s sake, why not break up the day with a calm, delectable lunch?

Located on the grounds of the Château, Chef Alain Ducasse’s ORE serves carefully prepared, high-end café fare in a light, airy setting.  Ore means mouth in Latin and also plays on the French word for gold (or).  The gold décor and sunburst tableware speak to the historic setting, and the menus correspond to the seasons.  On my last visit I ordered a perfect spring vegetable tartelette resting on a green pea purée, followed by a verbena and raspberry soufflé. Disconnected from the effervescent commotion of the Château, my friends and I enjoyed classic French cuisine graced with touches of modernity, all in a discreet, elegant setting.

At ORE, The service is attentive and efficient, the food beautifully plated and delicious.  After a quiet, relaxed lunch, you will be ready to continue your visit of the Château.

Allison’s Tips
ORE teams up with the Château of Versailles to offer breakfast or lunch followed by direct access (no lines!) to the Château and its grounds.  Reserve for breakfast + direct access (40€) or lunch + direct access (60€).  The set menus vary according to the season.

Make a reservation for breakfast (starting at 12€), lunch (starting at 16€), or afternoon tea (35€)

Make a reservation for evening dinners, offered on select dates throughout the summer

Reserve ORE for a private evening function by calling +33 1 30 84 12 97

Access:  ORE is on the second floor of the Pavillon Dufour at the Château of Versailles.  From the security checkpoint on the Place d’Armes, enter the Cour d’Honner and hang left as you approach the Cour Royal and the Pavillon Dufour.  From the gardens, follow the signs to the Cour des Princes and access the Pavillon Dufour from the Cour des Princes courtyard.

Unlocking Versailles

By Allison

keyhole versailles

Photo Courtesy Yann Prigent

With so much to see in Paris, it’s easy to shortchange Versailles.  Over the years, I made a number of half-day trips to Versailles, dreading the lines I’d face waiting to visit the Château and bracing myself for the crowds of fellow tourists.

Recently, though, I’ve come to embrace Versailles as a destination unto itself rather than a simple daytrip from Paris.  The more time I spend in Versailles, the more I grow to appreciate its splendor, history, and dynamism.

Every year, millions of people visit Versailles’ Château, gardens, and Trianon Palaces, and each year the crowds grow!  I have learned how to navigate the swelling crowds of Versailles, and I am setting out to create a guide to the Château, its grounds, and the city of Versailles.  My French co-authors are Art Historian Stéphane Ceccaldi and Professor Yann Prigent.   As we research, write, and photograph, I will share some of my Versailles secrets with you on Creative Sanctuary.  Collected in the My Versailles category of the blog, the brief posts “unlock” Versailles with personal tips and tricks for avoiding long lines at the Château.  I’ll share favorite restaurants at all price points and highlight local hotspots often overlooked by tourists.  Please send questions and inquiries to unlockingversailles@gmail.com.