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Creative Sanctuary

Archives for July 2020

La fontaine Médicis, Laura Godlaski

July 31, 2020 By Allison

medici fountainTaking its name from the powerful Medici family of Florence, Italy, la fontaine Médicis is a hidden gem nestled in the popular Luxembourg gardens in Paris. Marie de Medici (1575 – 1642), who was the widow of King Henri IV of France, found herself weary of living in the Louvre after her husband’s death.  She decided to have her own palace, Palais des Médicis, constructed (~1623 – 30) on the left bank of the Seine.  Feeling nostalgic for the style of the Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens in her hometown of Florence, she commissioned both her palace and its surrounding gardens to be modeled on this same Italian Renaissance style.

The Fontaine Médicis in her gardens was originally not a fountain but a grotto (a scenic natural or artificial cave, the latter often constructed as a decorative element for a garden), known as La grotte du Luxembourg. It was most likely the work of Tommaso Francini, who had previously built grottos for gardens in Florence, in Rome, and in France for Henry IV.  Marie de Medici particularly adored La grotte de Buontalenti in the Boboli gardens, and so Francini took much of his inspiration from this style, with nymphs as a central feature of the grotto.

medici fountainHowever, much of the original design has been changed or replaced in a number of reconstructions over the years.  These include the change in form from grotto to fountain along with other modifications in 1799 by the celebrated Jean Chalgrin  (1739 – 1811), architect of the Arc de Triomphe.  The most notable changes took place later, between 1864 – 66, when the fountain was moved about 30 meters to its current location in the Luxembourg gardens due to the construction of la rue Médicis.  There, the fountain was extensively rebuilt into the version we see today.  This final construction was based on the designs of Alphonse de Gisors (1796 – 1861), with sculptures by Auguste Ottin (1811 – 90), and contains a number of decorative elements.

The Medici coat of arms is centered on the top exterior panel of the fountain.  Other main features of the fountain Galatée et Acisinclude a central niche featuring Ottin’s statue of Acis holding Galatea, the two lying together under a rock on top of which is perched Polyphemus, ready to launch the stone fated to kill his rival*.  The side niches are decorated with a statue of a faun (probably Pan) and a huntress (probably Diana).  Because the fountain no longer had a “back” once it was moved to its current location, a large bas-relief by Achille Valois (1785 – 1862), featuring Leda with Jupiter transformed into a swan**, was moved from another salvaged fountain (originally at the intersection of the rue du Regard and the rue de Vaugirard) and placed on the new back wall for the Medici fountain.

Original viewers would have likely been familiar with these classical stories, given the revival of classical Roman and Greek myth during the Renaissance and the subsequent popularity of these themes in art and design.

Finally, Alphonse de Gisors also added the long water basin, extending approximately 50 meters from the fountain, and surrounded this basin with vases still in place today and in which are placed colorful flowers according to season.  There are typically more Parisians than tourists who come to relax on the benches here.  La Fontaine Médicis is a tranquil and beautiful place to sit quietly, listen to the soft babble of water, and find a bit of respite from the metropolitan pace of Paris.

*In Greek mythology, the Cyclops Polyphemus was deeply in love with Galatea, a sea nymph; however, she was in love with the young shepherd Acis, and the two used to mock Polyphemus’s songs of love for Galatea.  This statue depicts the moment when Polyphemus catches the lovers sleeping on a hill, just before killing Acis by crushing him under a huge rock. 

**Leda was the beautiful daughter of a king, and her beauty attracted Jupiter/Zeus.  Because Leda had already just been married to another king, however, Jupiter/Zeus decided to turn himself into an alluring swan in order to seduce her. 

References

“La Fontaine Médicis au Jardin du Luxembourg.” Paris 1900 l’art nouveau. pars. 1-2.           www.paris1900.lartnouveau.com/paris06/jardin_du_luxembourg/la_fontaine_medicis.htm. 1 Mar. 2020.

“Le Jardin du Luxembourg: La Fontaine Médicis.” Sénat: un site au service des citoyens. p. 1; all pp. in “Pour aller plus loin.” www.senat.fr/visite/fontaine/index.html 29 Feb. 2020.

“Paris-Insolite: La Fontaine Médicis.” Un jour de plus à Paris. pars. 3-12. www.unjourdeplusaparis.com/paris-insolite/fontaine-medicis  1 Mar. 2020.

Images 

Desmarais, Robert.  Galatée et Acis.JPG. Photo prise à la Fontaine de Médicis, Paris, Created 1 August 2008. Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10222872   Wikimedia CommonsRetrieved 11 March 2020.

“Paris-Insolite: La Fontaine Médicis.” Un jour de plus à Paris.  www.unjourdeplusaparis.com/paris-insolite/fontaine-medicis  Published with permission from the website. Two images retrieved 1 Mar. 2020.

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Ideas, Improvise, Inspiration, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: fontaine Médicis, French history, Luxembourg Gardens, Marie de Medici, Medici Fountain, Renaissance

Rue des Thermopyles: Paris’ Pastoral Paradox, Meg Whelan

July 29, 2020 By Allison

rue des thermopylesYou’re strolling on a Sunday afternoon through the 14th arrondissement. As you pass by Pharmacie Didot-Pernety, you make a turn and enter another world. This stretch of plant-adorned, pastel-painted, bicycle-embellished cobblestone is so far from the grime-covered, metro-lined, Seine-smelling city you left behind. You have discovered the paysan within Paris. Welcome to the Rue des Thermopyles.

The street finds its name in an ancient history. Its characteristic narrowness reminded an old quill-wielding Parisian of the tapered passages of the 450 B.C.E. Battle of Thermopylae. And so, this Greek nomenclature wrote its way into the French landscape. The Rue des Thermopyles has been described as a place which lingers in the past and exists outside of the Parisian present. It is the pastoral charm and tranquility of this street which garnered local attention when it was released from private control and made public in 1925. Due to this history, the residential area remains comparatively free of the cafés and shops which clutter every other Parisian street. For a brief 280-meter stretch, your surroundings convince you that you must be in the French countryside.

Yet, on your Sunday afternoon meander, you might notice the ways in which modernity is altering the street’s vintage character. In between the blue, pink and yellow flower boxes, white walls have become the collective canvases for the community’s artists. Miss Tic, the Parisian-born daughter of a Tunisian immigrant and French farmer, is a celebrated feminist graffitist whose compelling work contrasts the pleasant scene of the Rue des Thermopyles. The black-and-white image of a woman with a sword and shield is captioned: “Dépasser le passé. Toute une histoire.” This striking call to arms finds great contrast within its fairytale-like environment.

As you investigate the neighborhood’s street art, be careful! You might accidentally fall prey to the roaming Instagrammer searching the neighborhood for the perfect background to post. The Rue des Thermopyles has become quite the Internet attraction in recent years because of its simultaneous accessibility and foreignness. Just search #ruedesthermopyles, and see for yourself. Is that the back of your head next to the purple heart-shaped door?

References

“La rue des Thermopyles, le charme bucolique du 14e.” Paris Zig Zag. https://www.pariszigzag.fr/balades-excursions/balade-paris/rue-des-thermopyles-le-charme-bucolique-du-14eme

“Paris: Rue des Thermopyles, promenade fleurie et souvenirs du village de Plaisance – XIVème.” Paris la Douce. 1 April 2017. https://www.parisladouce.com/2017/04/paris-la-rue-des-thermopyles-promenade.html.

“Qui est Miss Tic ? Artiste street art ou féministe ?” slave 2.0, 23 January 2017. https://www.slave2point0.com/2017/01/23/qui-est-miss-tic-artiste-street-art-ou-f%C3%A9ministe/.

Vellut, Guilhem. “Rue des Thermopyles @ Paris.” Wikimedia, 14 June 2017. Image. https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:Search&limit=20&offset=20&profile=default&search=rue+des+thermopyles&advancedSearch-current=%7B%7D&ns0=1&ns6=1&ns12=1&ns14=1&ns100=1&ns106=1#/media/File:Rue_des_Thermopyles_@_Paris_(35182129971).jpg.

 

 

 

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Inspiration, Nature, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Mis Tic, Paris 14e, Paris insolite, Paris walk, rue des Thermophyles, stroll

Art Nouveau and Paris, Annalise Palmer

July 27, 2020 By Allison

Lalique CombAt the turn of the nineteenth century, a new art movement took the world by storm and situated itself within the prominent visual identity and culture of Europe and the United States. Although the movement originated in England, with artists like William Morris and Walter Crane, the most prominent and utilized title for the artistic era was the French phrase, l’Art Nouveau, literally translating to, “the new style.” Artists and craftsmen came together with the intentions of breaking away from the traditional and academic study of fine art in an attempt to redefine and redistribute art by imbuing everyday objects with beauty. Rather than referencing the classical and mythological subjects and styles of the past, artists looked to the forms found in nature as well as the various subjects and styles of Japanese woodblock prints. Works manifested as fine art with painting and sculpture, graphic art with drawings and prints, and in more uncommon mediums, such as jewelry, glasswork, and ceramics.

The eclectic nature of Art Nouveau is most exemplified in Paris, where the highly ornate style of the movement came to life in the home, as well as the public sphere. Artists like Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Eugène Grasset looked at the graphic nature of the new style and produced a number of ornate posters for store fronts, night clubs, and various products. Toulouse-Lautrec is the most famous of the two artists, as his prints for Le Moulin Rouge strikingly stand out in Parisian history for the bright colors, heavy yet sinuous line work, and the caricature-esque nature of figures. Another very popular medium in Parisian Art Nouveau was jewelry and accessories. René Lalique was one of the most sought-after designers, as his luxurious pieces were heavily ornamental and whimsical references to the natural world.

An example of the superfluous Lalique accessories is a Bodice ornament, from 1903 or ‘04. Although the piece is only 135 x 50 millimeters, Lalique utilized three different enamel techniques, engraved crystal, and gold accents to create an eternal hyacinth flower. Art Nouveau was specifically welcomed in interior design as well as architecture, as the playful yet opulent designs of la Belle Époque survive even today. Louis Majorelle was a highly demanded Parisian furniture designer; his designs seem phantasmagorical with curvilinear forms, intricate floral or natural patterns, and exquisite craftsmanship. His works, which were meant to adorn the homes of the upper classes, now grace the exhibition halls of museums around the world. One could still experience the grandeur nature of Art Nouveau in Paris, as a number of edifices preserve the palatial designs of artists like Majorelle, Lalique, Lautrec, and more.

In the eighth arrondissment, Maxim’s is one of many luxurious restaurants with a past that is deeply intertwined with the Art Nouveau movement. The interior of the building was designed by Louis Marnez in 1899, after being commissioned by two chefs who inherited the business. The ambiance of the interior is quite romantic; the walls are covered with mahogany panels, copper accents, and antiqued mirrors, which break up the intimate mural scenes of voluptuous nymphs. The light fixtures are modeled to look like plant life, with sconces, lamps, and chandeliers that resemble glowing flowers moreso than the traditional alternative. To couple with the sensuous interior, Marnez supposedly placed beautiful courtesans in the windows of each room to avoid emptiness and create public desire and attention.

Wandering throughout the streets of Paris, one does not have to look too far to experience the opulence and luxuriousness of the era. Maxim’s is one of the many picturesque emblems to survive from the height of Art Nouveau, as a number of cafés, boulangeries, and even subway entrances carry on the visual aesthetics and elements that were integral to the new style. To say that artists injected each object of daily living with simple beauty in an understatement, as each work of art seems to create its own physical world of grace and whimsy that is difficult to find in most other artistic movements of eras.

References

Camus, Dominique, Fred Aufray, and Thierry Prat. Paris décors Art Nouveau, Art déco … Paris:               C. Bonneton, 2011.

Citroen, K. A. “Lalique Et Baudelaire: Quelques Reflexions Sur Un Bijou Art       Nouveau.” Simiolus: Netherlands Quarterly for the History of Art 1, no. 3 (1966): 153.     https://doi.org/10.2307/3780411.

Lahor, Jean. Lart Nouveau: Son Histoire, L’art Nouveau étranger à Lexposition … Paris:             Lemerre,1901.https://books.google.com/books?hl=en&lr=&id=OSdBAAAAYAAJ&oi=f nd&pg= PT1&dq=art nouveau francais&ots=mVWwtXDZWe&sig=1GR6hwuED_mu             q6X_rmKDJCD5PDY#v=onepage&q=Gallé&f=false.

Lalique, René Jules. Bodice Ornament. 1903-04. Cast glass, enamelled gold, and fire opals.  Victoria and Albert Museum. Acquisition number: M.116A-1966

Rossella Froissart. “ L’Art nouveau, une remise en question des frontières esthétiques ”. La vie intellectuelle en France – XIXe-XXIe siècles, sous la direction de Christophe Charle et Laurent Jeanpierre, Editions du Seuil, pp.536-540, 2016. hal-02337146

 

 

 

Filed Under: Antiquing, Arts, Explore, France, Inspiration, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Art Nouveau, Lalique, Majorelle, Maxim's, Toulouse-Lautrec, unlocking Paris

The Covered Passages of Paris

July 25, 2020 By Allison

galerie vivienneIn spring 2020, my students and I embarked on an exploration of the City of Lights in our Unlocking Paris class.  Each student investigated an aspect of Paris that might not be known to the typical tourist–artistic movements, architecture, and monuments. They then composed blog posts dedicated to their subject, went through peer editing, and finally revisions.  Over the next month, I will feature their insightful, lively work on Creative Sanctuary.  Our hope is to share beautiful Paris with our readers.  I launch the series with my post on Paris’ Covered Passages.  

Airy, glass-ceilinged passages make for some of the most charming and pleasant Paris strolls.  Although the first passages were wooden and appeared at the end of the 18th century, most of them were constructed in the first half of the 19th century.  At the time, the layout of Paris remained essentially medieval—streets were narrow and somewhat difficult to navigate.  The construction of covered passages, connecting two streets and reserved for pedestrians, allowed for easier circulation and provided shelter from inclement weather.  Aesthetically pleasing, the privately owned passages boasted mosaics, murals, spiral staircases, and filtered light.  Covered passages became the height of fashion and of commerce, housing boutiques, restaurants, and even hotels!

Before the 1860s and Haussmann’s urbanization of Paris, there were 55 covered passages.  With the arrival of train stations, department stores and the widening of city streets, they fell out of favor and many were victim to destruction.  Today, 17 covered passages and “galleries” remain.  Especially elegant is the Galerie Vero-Dodat (1826), built in the neoclassic style by a family of successful butchers.  Today this gallery is home to Christian Louboutin’s workshop as well as a Lute-maker.  Another of the most stunning is the Galerie Vivienne (1823), where the bookstore Librarie Jousseaume has operated since 1826.  The Hôtel Chopin is found in The Passage Jouffroy (1847).  Formerly the Hôtel des Familles, Frédéric Chopin and his mistress George Sand used to rendezvous here.

Other passages are less elegant and more economical for Paris wanderers and residents.  The Passage du Caire (1798) is the longest in Paris and until recently was heavily populated with fashion wholesalers.  The Passage Brady (1828) is known as a center for Indian and Pakistani food in Paris.

References

Boyer, Paula.  « Dans les passages couverts de Paris. »  La Croix 20 January 2019 : n. pag. Web.  9 February 2020.  https://www.la-croix.com/Culture/Art-de-vivre/passages-couverts-Paris-2019-01-20-1200996629

Canac, Sybil and Bruno Cabanis.  Passages couverts de Paris.  Issy-les-Moulineaux: Massin, 2011.

Galerie Vivienne.  By David Pendery – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=43508185

« Passages & Galeries. »    Web.  9 February 2020.  http://passagesetgaleries.fr/

 

Filed Under: Arts, Explore, Finds, France, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Centre College, Covered Passages, French class, Paris Architecture, Paris history, Passages of Paris

July 22, 2020 By Allison

creative sanctuary bannerThe joy of the creative process, minute by minute, hour after hour, day by day, is the sublime path to true happiness.     –George Lois

This blog went live three years ago today!  I launched Creative Sanctuary well after peak blog craze with no desire to become an influencer and no intention to monetize this space.  I had recently published my book and felt an intense need to step away from academic writing.  It was time to channel some of my creative energy into brief, accessible passages about travel, tea culture, and cuisine.  I admittedly post much less than I initially anticipated.  In my ideal blog world, I would write every week.  But given life’s pace, I am lucky to post once a month.

Blogging has been immensely satisfying.  It allows me to continue practicing the craft of writing, my photography has improved, and I’ve done a tiny bit of coding.  I seem to be finding my niche blogging on France as well as on personal, yet universal topics such as extreme rest.

Even when I don’t have time to blog, I’m always generating ideas.  I’d love to write about my collection of vintage fashion prints, about ethereal Korean green teas, and I have so much more to share about Versailles!  As I hoped, Creative Sanctuary has become one of my “creative sanctuaries.”  Working on this blog is consistently joyful.

Creative Sanctuary has featured the work of young creatives, including the lettering of the fabulous Olivia Murrell.  Over the next month, I will publish the work of fourteen students from my spring 2020 course Unlocking Paris.  Their bright pieces will bring Paris to us at a time when the City of Lights remains largely inaccessible.  Moving forward, my blog will continue to explore creative life in its many forms.

https://www.creativesanctuary.net/2102-2/

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, Ideas, Improvise, Inspiration, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: blogging, creative life, creative sanctuary, inspiration

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Thank you for dropping by Creative Sanctuary! I am a French professor in Kentucky, grew up in Iowa, and I often travel internationally. This blog gathers, documents, and connects my passions--travel, cooking, stories, France, and tea culture. Bonne lecture! --Allison Connolly

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