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Travels

Unlocking Versailles

September 1, 2018 By Allison

keyhole versailles

Photo Courtesy Yann Prigent

With so much to see in Paris, it’s easy to shortchange Versailles.  Over the years, I made a number of half-day trips to Versailles, dreading the lines I’d face waiting to visit the Château and bracing myself for the crowds of fellow tourists.

Recently, though, I’ve come to embrace Versailles as a destination unto itself rather than a simple daytrip from Paris.  The more time I spend in Versailles, the more I grow to appreciate its splendor, history, and dynamism.

Every year, millions of people visit Versailles’ Château, gardens, and Trianon Palaces, and each year the crowds grow!  I have learned how to navigate the swelling crowds of Versailles, and I am setting out to create a guide to the Château, its grounds, and the city of Versailles.  My French co-authors are Art Historian Stéphane Ceccaldi and Professor Yann Prigent.   As we research, write, and photograph, I will share some of my Versailles secrets with you on Creative Sanctuary.  Collected in the My Versailles category of the blog, the brief posts “unlock” Versailles with personal tips and tricks for avoiding long lines at the Château.  I’ll share favorite restaurants at all price points and highlight local hotspots often overlooked by tourists.  Please send questions and inquiries to unlockingversailles@gmail.com.

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Inspiration, My Versailles, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Ancien Régime, antique, Château de Versailles, France, French history, île-de-France, Keyhole, Louis XIV, Paris, tourisme, travel, travel France, unlocking versailles, Versailles, visit Versailles, Yvelines

Sydney Tea Scene

August 8, 2018 By Allison

Last year in Sydney, I drank smooth, creamy flat whites, but I also found my way to the city’s welcoming, vibrant tea scene.  While coffee is more prevalent in Australia, Sydney’s tea vibe drew me in.  The city boasts a warm, diverse, and growing tea community.  In fact, the fifth annual Sydney Tea Festival will take place on August 19th.  The celebration of loose leaf tea features a market, workshops, master classes, and a tea pairing dinner.  Clearly, I’ve only begun to scratch the surface of Sydney’s tea culture.  Here I detail some of my memorable Sydney tea experiences.

The Rabbit Hole Organic Tea Bar

rabbit hole organic shop[DECEMBER 2018 NOTE:  The Rabbit Hole’s Redfern location will close after December 23, 2018, but Barangaroo location will still be open.]

Co-founders of the Sydney Tea Festival, Corrine Smith and Amara Jarrett opened The Rabbit Hole Organic Tea Bar in 2010 as a way to bring new, creative sipping options to Sydney’s tea enthusiasts.  When I stepped into the Redfern location, studious-looking people filled the tables, mugs of tea placed next to each laptop.  I also spied a handful of Instagrammers snapping shots of their colorful tea lattes.  The space was open and airy.  Thanks to the yellow accents, it felt sunny and warm.  I sampled the perfectly pink Turkish Delight Latte and then moved on to The Rabbit Hole’s other tea offerings:  Lemon Aid (lemon myrtle, lemongrass, ginger), Grey Goddess (a delicate, citrusy white tea), and Lavender Cream (Milk Oolong with vanilla and lavender petals).  The Rabbit Hole organic teas are whimsical, tasty, and thought-provoking.

rabbit hole organic tea counter

rabbit hole turkish delight tea latte

The tea bar offers a full array of hot tea, tea lattes, and tea “mocktails”, but one mustn’t overlook the tea-inspired foods on the menu:  Earl Grey infused strawberry jam, Lapsang Souchong mushrooms served on sourdough toast with hummus and basil oil, and avocado toast with preserved lemon freekeh and hazelnut dukkha.  Sweets include puffy meringues, pretty nougats, and a daily cake offering.  Each food item is listed with a suggested tea pairing.

rabbit hole organic tea customers

Redfern Tea Bar
146 Abercrombie St, Redfern NSW 2016

Barangaroo
Shop 1, 23 Barangaroo Ave
https://therabbithole.com.au/

Teahouse at White Rabbit Gallery

The White Rabbit Gallery features one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary Chinese art.  Before spending time with the art, I relaxed for an hour in the gallery’s teahouse, enjoying savory dumplings and oolong tea.  I steeped the balanced and slightly floral Ti Kwan Yin several times.  Due to jetlag, I spent most of the time gazing at the fabulous birdcage-covered ceiling, but White Rabbit’s teahouse would be the ideal place to spend a rainy day—with a book, a friend, or both!

White Rabbit
30 Balfour Street
Chippendale NSW 2008
Teahouse

white rabbit ceiling birdcages

T Totaler

ttotaler figleaf white teaT Totaler is a homegrown tea business, focusing on Australian grown teas and botanicals.  Founded in 2012, Amber and Paul Sunderland make custom tea blends for restaurants, develop tea-based “mocktails”, and teach workshops.  At their Newtown tea bar, I sampled a dazzling Teagroni, an iced White Peony tea with rose petals, and a hot Australian grown Sencha with coconut and lemon myrtle.  Each one was perfect in its own way, and the tea bar’s decor was charmingly cozy with fiddle leaf figs and apothecary jars.  Since my visit, T Totaler has opened a second location in the center of Sydney, which is now their primary location.

ttotaler apothacary

ttotaler teas

T Totaler
555a King Street
Newtown 2042 [Weekends only]

The Galeries Tea Bar
26A, Ground Floor
The Galeries, 500 George Street, 2000
T Totaler Tea

Lotus The Galeries

lotus sydney tea cocktailOne of Sydney’s favorite dumpling restaurants, Lotus The Galeries also features a range of teas.  I had the privilege and pleasure of sharing dumplings and tea cocktails with Sydney’s own teagramming sisters Neha and Smruthi.  This charming and generous sister team marries the art of tea with the art of cocktails on their teatini__ Instagram page.  Using tea from small tea companies from Australia and New Zealand, Neha and Smruthi develop tea cocktail recipes that highlight rather than mask the taste of the leaf.  Their original recipes can be found on Instagram at teatini__.

Lotus The Galeries
Shop 6, level 1, 500 George Street
Sydney, NSW 2000
http://www.lotusdining.com.au/ 

lotus sydney tea cocktails

Photo courtesy teatini__

Afternoon Tea at the Langham

Langham sydney afternoon tea 4Sydney’s innovative and cutting edge tea scene also leaves room for traditional afternoon tea that showcases high end teas and fine pastries incorporating local ingredients.  I spent a leisurely and luxurious afternoon at the Langham Sydney.  This afternoon teatime is perhaps the most perfect I’ve ever experienced—attentive service, perfectly-infused teas, delightful savories and sweets, a cozy armchair.  The pink champagne enhanced my languorous afternoon!  I was able to sample a number of teas—a subtle Orange blossom tea, a creamy black Assam, and a white tea with melon.  The scones were warm and crumbly, and other sweets were graced with an Australian touch: a hibiscus and guava tart and a cherry lamington. The savories were traditional and spot on:  a curried free range egg finger sandwich as well as a prawn, shallot and dill finger sandwich.

langham sydney afternoon tea 3

langham sydney afternoon tea 2

Langham Sydney Afternoon Tea 5

The Langham Sydney
89-113 Kent Street
Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia
http://www.langhamhotels.com/en/the-langham/sydney/dining/afternoon-tea-with-wedgwood/

Filed Under: Arts, Breakfast, Comfort Foods, Cuisine, Desserts, Explore, Finds, Ideas, Improvise, Inspiration, Stories, Tea and other beverages, Tea Culture, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: afternoon tea, antioxidants, Australia, Australia travel, flashes of delight, Langham, Langham Sydney, loose leaf, organic tea, Rabbit Hole Organic Tea, slow living, Sydney, Sydney Tea Festival, Sydney Tea Scene, tea culture, tea cultures, tea life, tea scene sydney, tea time, tea travel, teahouse, tearooms, travel Australia, travel Sydney, TTotaler, Wedgwood, White Rabbit Sydney

Colors of the Soul

July 19, 2018 By Allison

Shinique Smith Stained GlassThe soul becomes dyed with the color of its thoughts.
–Marcus Aurelius, Meditations, Book 5, v. 16

Thanks to my Instagram habit, much of my mental space is occupied by squares.  Within the limits of a square, I sense the freedom to share without words.  I envision a clear, thoughtful grid connecting experiences and exuding harmony.  Imagine my delight when I recently stepped into a contemporary stained glass exhibit that was dominated by square panels!

My first thought was that much like me, the artists were under the spell of Instagram.  But then I thought of the stained glass windows in Chartres Cathedral, a few steps from the museum.  Some of the windows are 900 years old, and most are arranged in circles, squares, and rectangles.  Each window is its own medieval grid, to be read from bottom to top. So, placing a story in the bounds of a square is nothing new, but the immediacy and reach of Instagram is.

The contemporary pieces at the International Stained Glass Centre do not invite a bottom to top reading, but rather offer a sampling of work from artists all over the world, exploring the theme “the search for the light of the world.”  I treat the works as impressions rather than narratives.  My eye goes straight to the tight, bursting center of Shinique Smith’s untitled 2016 panel.  Her energetic swirls are reminiscent of dragon flies that skip across lakes in the summer and remind me of the fairy parties I organize for my nieces and nephew.  Much like the medieval panels in the cathedral across the way, color and light cultivate wonder.  Her work brings forth an inner light that radiates, undulates, and eventually flows from the frame.  Here, the multicolored lumière du monde grows from a dense, interior space of possibility–patterns, shapes and colors in evolution, expressing the harmonious contrasts of the soul.

Filed Under: Arts, Explore, Finds, France, Inspiration, Meditation, Nature, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: âme, Centre International du Vitrail, Chartres, contemporary art, contemporary stained glass, cultural studies, Instagram, Marcus Aurelius, Notre-Dame-de-Chartres, Shinique Smith, social media, soul, stained glass, vitrail, vitraux

Wearing Stories

June 17, 2018 By Allison

bangle bracelet collectionEvery day, I wear stories.  The stack of bracelets on my left arm reminds me of dear people, travels, and great deals scored in local antique shops.  Side-by-side, the bangles, beads, cuffs, metal, and leather hold meaningful moments that span decades—my visit to the Leather School in Florence, a sterling silver bangle that Dad brought back from Ireland, two sweet bracelets made of glass beads from Mali.

I mix color and texture, vintage and contemporary.  Bracelets offer too much possibility for a minimalist aesthetic, so I give into my maximalist tendencies.  More is more–shine, glimmer, clink and contrast!  We are ever-changing works of art, and our jewels reflect our evolution.  My arm decoration changes by day, marking moods, seasons, and the sweet passage of time.

Filed Under: Antiquing, Arts, Explore, Finds, Ideas, Improvise, Inspiration, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized, Vintage Tagged With: African beads, art, bangles, beads, bracelets, cuffs, diy, fashion, flea market finds, Florence, Ireland, jewels, Leather School, Mali, maximalism, trade beads, trend, vintage

Keyhole

April 28, 2018 By Allison

Chartres Cathedral Keyhole

...everything is already present, though hidden.
–Hildegard of Bingen

We’re drawn to the grandeur of Gothic cathedrals—height, history, stained glass, light.  So old!  So holy!  So overwhelming!

I’ve made my way to Chartres Cathedral several times in the last twenty years, and each visit allows me to know the space more intimately. With each day spent wandering the Cathedral, its light, colors, and shapes become more deeply rooted in my internal landscape.  Likewise, I think that through my thought and presence, I become part of the very long history of Notre-Dame de Chartres.  I believe that different versions of myself linger in the transepts, the ambulatories, and on the 13th century labyrinth.

During my last visit to Chartres, the Cathedral was cold and hushed.  More than usual, I absorbed detail.  A small, dried bouquet tacked to a column, a group of women praying the rosary at the foot of a statue of the Virgin Mary, a tunic-shaped keyhole on the North Porch of the church.  The decoration had been already present, though hidden to me, lost among the statues of Old Testament figures.  The minute detail announces that Notre-Dame de Chartres houses the Sancta Camisia, a veil that is believed to have been worn by the Virgin Mary.  A sacred relic, the garment was given to Chartres in 876 by Charlemagne’s grandson, Charles the Bald.  The Sancta Camisia has been credited with protecting the Cathedral over the centuries, and it is still an object of devotion for pilgrims.

Each of my occasional Chartres pilgrimages helps me to unlock present-hidden parts of myself.  The knowledge doesn’t reside in the Cathedral like I once thought.  Rather, I believe that sacred places emanate a peaceful beauty that enables us to access the wisdom we already possess.

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Ideas, Inspiration, Meditation, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: art history, Catholic, Chartres, Chartres Cathedral, Eure-et-Loir, France, Gothic, Hildegard of Bingen, Keyhole, Middle Ages, Sancta Camisia, Tunic, Virgin Mary

Madeline on Our Mind

April 7, 2018 By Allison

Madeline ParisIn an old house in Paris that was covered with vines
lived twelve little girls in two straight lines

My four year-old niece Sylvie Rose is intrigued by the story of a little girl in Paris named Madeline. Her father bought the storybook for Sylvie before she was even born, and I imagine they have spent many hours reading and rereading about Miss Clavel’s sense that something was not right... about Madeline’s subsequent surgery…the crank on the hospital bed… the dollhouse from Papa…her friends’ hospital visit.

I suspect that some of Sylvie’s devotion to Madeline is due to the fact that she lives in Paris. Sylvie Rose knows that Aunt Allison is a French teacher who makes occasional visits to Paris. Her questions give me glimpses of her four-year old mind: Madeline is a real kid, right? Where is her house? And during my most recent trip to France she called to ask, Did you find her?

I love her intensity and admire her persistence in her search for Madeline. These FaceTime conversations strengthen my bond with my niece, but they have also served as a surprising throwback to my own childhood. When I was seven or eight, I was infatuated with Madeline. My little sister had a pop-up version of the book, and I loved it so! I think I found beauty in the order of the twelve little girls in two straight lines. In two straight lines they broke their bread, and brushed their teeth, and went to bed. These words are etched in my mind.

Madeline was probably my first exposure to Paris, or at least to the idea of Paris. Each monument pictured in the story is now familiar to me—Notre Dame, les Invalides, les Jardins de Luxembourg.  Paris is home to me.  As a little girl in Iowa, these places would have seemed otherworldly. I believe that I chose to study French, in part, thanks to my affinity for Madeline and my curiosity about the vision of France I discovered in her story.

Many years later, Sylvie Rose is weaving her own literary landscape, and Madeline is part of it.  Watching her, the story of the little girl in Paris reemerges, expands, and intersects with my niece’s quest.

 

Inspirations

Ludwig Bemelmans’ Madeline, published in 1939

Reading with kids

The joy of summer reading

 

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Inspiration, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: aunts, childhood, children's literature, family time, literature, Ludwig Bemelans, Madeline, nieces, Paris, reading with kids

Transport Me

March 31, 2018 By Allison

Royal Opera of VersaillesAs soon as I stepped into the theater, a sumptuous hush fell over me.

In its opulence, the Royal Opera of Versailles is somehow cozy.  The rocaille swoops and curves impart lightness, and the gold warms.  The chandelier light is soft.  The 18th century theater is made of wood and holds 712 spectators.  We had gathered to watch Barry Douglas and the Camerata Ireland perform three of Mozart’s Piano Concertos (20, 23, 25).  As people made their way to their narrow, velvety seats, the theater got warmer and our reverent anticipation heightened.

Although Mozart and the Royal Opera are linked to a specific time and place—18th century Europe—the evening felt timeless and placeless.  I was alone, yet surrounded.  I was in France, and I was elsewhere.  The fragile space and ephemeral sound brought on a happy clarity, unbound by geography and time.

 

Inspirations

Official website of the Opéra Royal de Versailles

Official website of Camerata Ireland

 

Filed Under: Arts, Explore, France, Ideas, Inspiration, My Versailles, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: 18th century architecture, Ange-Jacques Gabriel, architecture, Barry Douglas, Camerata Ireland, Château de Versailles, concert, France, île-de-France, Irish, Mozart, Opéra Royal, rocaille, Royal Opera, Versailles

Savory Valentine Biscuits

February 11, 2018 By Allison

savory valentine biscuitHeart-shaped cookies abound!  In the spirit of the season, I developed a savory cut out cracker recipe for a Valentine aperitif.  Since I forego frosting and sprinkles, this treat is relatively low maintenance.

My heart biscuits contain a few ingredients, two of which stand out:  Parmesan cheese and Piment d’Espelette.  Piment d’Espelette is a sweet, flavorful red pepper grown in a Basque village called Espelette.  I bought mine in France, but it’s available dried and ground in specialty markets and online.  I use it anywhere I’d use black pepper—in vinaigrettes, on roasted vegetables, and sprinkled on soup.  It’s a little deeper and sweeter than black pepper.  And it’s so pretty.  The subtle, red pepper flakes make my rustic crackers worthy of Valentine’s Day.

If you don’t have Piment d’Espelette in your spice drawer, I suggest using ground pink peppercorns.  They lend a deep pink-purple hue to the crackers and taste just as delicious.

What should you sip with your heart biscuits?  Something bubbly: Champagne, Prosecco, a white beer, or sparkling water with a twist of lime.  Happy Valentine’s Day!

…

Read More

Filed Under: Appetizers, Brunch, Cocktail Parties, Comfort Foods, Cookies, Cuisine, France, Inspiration, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized, Vegetarian Dishes, Vintage Tagged With: aperitif, appetizer, Basque Country, Biscuits, cocktail, coeurs, Crackers, Espelette, hearts, Homemade Crackers, Pays Basque, Piment d'Espelette, Savory Biscuits, Valentine, Valentine's Day, Valentine's Day appetizer, Valentine's Day food

Light and Sky

January 8, 2018 By Allison

sky astor court nyc“Space is the breath of art.”
–Frank Lloyd Wright

Sometimes big cities suffocate me.  It seems that every inch of space is occupied by buildings, kiosks, and concrete.  I often find myself needing more green and more sky.

My recent trip to New York was bitterly cold, and the wind was brutal.  Venturing out was a process and a challenge, but my walks were freeing—the icy wind invigorating, the snowflakes dreamy.  Ice and snow dotted grey-green Central Park.  I easily weaved my way through the crowds on 5th avenue, stumbled into a toasty bookstore when my toes were too cold, and late one afternoon, found a French bistro serving soupe au pistou.

The constant chill of those days froze my senseless, minor worries, and the wind then blew them away.  Amongst and between the traffic and skyscrapers, I reclaimed my inner spaciousness.  New York gave breath to an elegant artfulness that refreshed and reset my own desire to create.  I bring home color, texture, light, and sky.

 

Inspirations

Afternoon Tea in Astor Court

Pablo Picasso’s Bird on a Tree at the Guggenheim

Odilon Redon’s Pandora at the Met

Mozart and Tchaikovsky at Lincoln Center

Filed Under: Explore, Inspiration, Stories, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Astor Court, creativity, cyclone bomb 2018, Frank Lloyd Wright, Guggenheim, Metropolitan Museum of Art, mindfulness, New York, Saint Regis New York, Sky, slow living, Space, wabi sabi, walks, winter

Holiday Minimalism

November 30, 2017 By Allison

I have some minor hoarding tendencies, mostly involving excessive amounts of books and clothes.  But when it comes to decorating for the holidays, I prefer a clean, streamlined, and muted look.  A few strands of twinkling white lights, some live greenery, and a dozen or so ornaments compose my Christmas décor most years.

This hand-painted ornament is always a sentimental and aesthetic favorite.  Quimper faïence (hand-painted pottery) comes from Brittany in Western France.  The art dates to the early 18th century, and it is emblematic of Brittany.  Each piece is signed.  Motifs include traditional dress and florals, like the one I feature in this post.

My thoughtful aunt Susie gifted this treasure to me years ago, and each time I slip it from its velvety pouch, my mind returns to our visits in France, Italy, and the Midwest.  Cool and heavy in my hand, this art piece also connects me to the artist who carries on this Breton tradition, as well as to friends from Brittany who have passed through my life over the years.

I admire minimalists for their empty closets and the clean looks they create in their homes.  I am not ready to significantly shorten my book stacks, nor am I prepared to thin out my extensive scarf collection.  Yet I emulate their restraint through my commitment to holiday minimalism.  My light touch keeps me from feeling bogged down by Christmas “stuff.” Each of my ornaments holds a story, which allows me to enjoy the season all the more.

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Inspiration, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: art piece, Bretagne, Brittany, faïence, florals, France, handpainted pottery, holiday decoration, holiday minimalism, minimalism, Quimper

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Thank you for dropping by Creative Sanctuary! I am a French professor in Kentucky, grew up in Iowa, and I often travel internationally. This blog gathers, documents, and connects my passions--travel, cooking, stories, France, and tea culture. Bonne lecture! --Allison Connolly

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