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Creative Sanctuary

September 2, 2017 By Allison

My Madeleines de Proust

“…I brought to my lips a spoonful of tea in which I had softened a piece of madeleine.  But at the exact moment when the mouthful mixed with cake crumbs touched my palate, I shivered, attentive to this extraordinary thing that was taking place in me.  A delicious pleasure had invaded me, isolated, no notion of its cause.  It had instantly made me indifferent to the vicissitudes of life, made its disasters harmless, its brevity illusory, in the same way that love operates, filling me with a precious essence:  or more accurately this essence wasn’t in me, it was me.”  –Marcel Proust, Du côté de chez Swann

Shell-shaped madeleine cakes were a part of my life before I ever knew about Marcel Proust and the memory-inducing power of his petites madeleines.  When I was a student in Paris, a bakery close to my school sold five madeleines for five francs—a deal!  At lunchtime, I’d often make my way down the rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs to pick up one of the tidy white bags holding five portable cakes.  Sometimes they were still warm.  Madeleines were my ideal student snack—simple, toothsome, and shareable.  A chocolate éclair or strawberry tartelette would have been more impressive, but the dainty butter cakes comforted me.  I imprinted my own madeleine experience well before encountering Proust.

Later, I would discover that Proust, too, found comfort in madeleines.  In the first volume of his 3,000 page novel Remembrance of Things Past, tasting a madeleine dipped in tea unleashes the narrator’s memory of taking tea and cake with Aunt Léonie.  In French culture, a madeleine de Proust refers to a heart-warming, evocative culinary experience that joins past and present.  Madeleine cakes are one of my madeleines de Proust.  They bring me back to the sweet, exhilarating sadness of being so far from home.  Other sweets unleash my involuntary memory, allowing me a delicious, temporary dance between past and present:  Grandma Rose Mary’s orange cookies, Grandma Mary Ellen’s sticky rolls, and the frosted graham crackers Mom served me as a toddler.  The frosting was always homemade, and she always served them on a rectangular, strawberry-patterned tray that is still in her kitchen.

What foods bring your past into the present?  Tell me about your madeleines de Proust in the comment section.

Citrus Madeleines

Created by aconnolly24 on September 2, 2017

I made modest changes to David Lebovitz’s Lemon-Glazed Madeleine recipe.  In the spirit of Julia child, I added three drops of lemon juice to the batter and opted not to make the glaze.  All ingredients should be at room temperature.

  • Yield: 24 cakes
  • Category: Small Bites, Sweets

Ingredients

  • 3 large eggs
  • 2/3 c granulated sugar
  • zest of one small lemon
  • 3 drops lemon juice
  • 3-finger pinch of salt
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • 1 1/4 c all-purpose flour
  • 9 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled in refrigerator. Additional melted butter for greasing molds.

Instructions

  1. Prepare your madeleine molds by brushing with the "extra" melted butter. Dust with flour, tap out excess, and place molds in freezer.
  2. Whip eggs, sugar, and salt for five minutes with electric hand mixer or standing electric mixer.
  3. Drizzle cooled butter into batter, folding as you go. Keep folding until all butter is incorporated.
  4. Add the 3 drops of lemon juice and lemon zest, and gently stir with a spatula.
  5. Spoon the flour and baking powder into a sifter or mesh strainer and use a spatula to fold in the flour as you sift it over the batter.
  6. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least one hour. (I always let the batter chill overnight)
  7. When you're ready to bake, preheat oven to 425 degrees.
  8. Place rounded spoonfuls of batter in the chilled molds, filling each indentation it to about 3/4. Don't spread batter.
  9. Bake for about 8 minutes. Keep an eye on the cakes and take them out as soon as they're set.
  10. Slide the madeleines onto a cooling rack, and once they've cooled a bit, enjoy with a cup of tea.
Source: David Lebovitz
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Filed Under: Comfort Foods, Cookies, Cuisine, Desserts, France, Inspiration, Stories, Tea and other beverages, Tea Culture, Travel, Travels, Vegetarian Dishes Tagged With: A la recherche du temps perdu, Baking, butter cakes, Combray, David Lebovitz, food memories, involuntary memory, Julia Child, Limoges, Madeleine Cakes, Madeleines, Marcel Proust, Montparnasse, Paris, Paris bakeries, Patisserie, Petites Madeleines, Reid Hall, Remembrance of Things Past, study abroad, traveling cakes

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. annette sampon-nicolas says

    September 2, 2017 at 1:27 pm

    Je ne t’ai jamais fait de madeleines avant que tu n’ailles à Paris ?

    • aconnolly24 says

      September 2, 2017 at 1:34 pm

      Non, mais tu m’en as fait après!

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Thank you for dropping by Creative Sanctuary! I am a French professor in Kentucky, grew up in Iowa, and I often travel internationally. This blog gathers, documents, and connects my passions--travel, cooking, stories, France, and tea culture. Bonne lecture! --Allison Connolly

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