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Creative Sanctuary

Centre College

The Catacombs of Paris, Amelia Lorrey

August 18, 2020 By Allison

catacombs entranceThe most macabre tourist attraction in Paris, the Catacombs, was initially a very practical solution to a serious 18th century sanitation problem. Cemeteries in Paris were overfull, so the remains needed to be moved to a separate, safer location underground. The skeletons were taken from many cemeteries around Paris, but primarily from les Saintes-Innocents, a very popular burial location for Parisians from the 12th to the 18th century.

The Catacombs are the final resting place for over six million Parisians throughout history. Beginning in 1785, remains were transferred to the Catacombs nightly for two years and sporadically for several years after that. The work of moving the remains had to be done at night, so that Parisians would not get upset and protest the removal of their deceased loved ones from their initial burial place. A priest accompanied the transfer of the bones and said a prayer for those who were being laid to rest once again. However, despite this care, the remains were dumped rather unceremoniously into the tunnels of the Catacombs.

It was not until Napoleon came to power that the bones were set up in the decorative way that they are today. Napoleon decided that the piles of Parisian bones sitting in tunnels beneath the city were not merely a practical sanitation solution but also a potential tourist attraction. Inspired by the famous catacombs in Rome, Napoleon appointed two men, Nicolas Frochot and Louis-Étienne Héricart de Thury, to turn the Catacombs into a site worth touring. Thus, the bones were arranged artistically and the design of the tunnels chosen very intentionally to appeal to tourists’ more morbid curiosity. One famous example of this is the sign above an entrance to the ossuary which reads: “Arrète! C’est ici l’empire de la mort” (Stop! This here is the empire of death”). These sort of dramatic touches might seem to an uniformed tourist to be the sign of a dark and ancient place, but in reality, they were a 19th century way to aggrandize the Catacomb’s spooky allure.catacombs bones

We might think of the Catacombs as an example of the Romantic or macabre fascinations of earlier ages. However, it is more truthful to understand them, as they stand today, as an intentional tourist attraction—and a very effective one at that. Over 150 years later, tourists in Paris are still happy to shell out €14 for a chance to visit Frochot and Héricart de Thury’s strangely beautiful underground ossuary.

References
“Histoire Des Catacombes.” Paris Pittoresque, www.paris-pittoresque.com/monuments/33.htm.

Karmelek, Mary. “You (Posthumously) Light up My Life.” Scientific American Blog Network,
Scientific American, 15 Apr. 2011, blogs.scientificamerican.com/anecdotes-from-thearchive/
you-posthumously-light-up-my-life/.

“L’histoire Du Site.” Les Catacombes De Paris, catacombes.paris.fr/lhistoire/lhistoire-du-site#.

“The Unbelievable Story of the Paris Catacombs.” Walks of Italy Blog, 6 Feb. 2017,
www.walksofitaly.com/blog/paris/paris-catacombs.

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Ideas, Inspiration, Uncategorized Tagged With: catacombs, Catacombs of Paris, Centre College, French class, Paris history, unlocking Paris, visit Paris

The Covered Passages of Paris

July 25, 2020 By Allison

galerie vivienneIn spring 2020, my students and I embarked on an exploration of the City of Lights in our Unlocking Paris class.  Each student investigated an aspect of Paris that might not be known to the typical tourist–artistic movements, architecture, and monuments. They then composed blog posts dedicated to their subject, went through peer editing, and finally revisions.  Over the next month, I will feature their insightful, lively work on Creative Sanctuary.  Our hope is to share beautiful Paris with our readers.  I launch the series with my post on Paris’ Covered Passages.  

Airy, glass-ceilinged passages make for some of the most charming and pleasant Paris strolls.  Although the first passages were wooden and appeared at the end of the 18th century, most of them were constructed in the first half of the 19th century.  At the time, the layout of Paris remained essentially medieval—streets were narrow and somewhat difficult to navigate.  The construction of covered passages, connecting two streets and reserved for pedestrians, allowed for easier circulation and provided shelter from inclement weather.  Aesthetically pleasing, the privately owned passages boasted mosaics, murals, spiral staircases, and filtered light.  Covered passages became the height of fashion and of commerce, housing boutiques, restaurants, and even hotels!

Before the 1860s and Haussmann’s urbanization of Paris, there were 55 covered passages.  With the arrival of train stations, department stores and the widening of city streets, they fell out of favor and many were victim to destruction.  Today, 17 covered passages and “galleries” remain.  Especially elegant is the Galerie Vero-Dodat (1826), built in the neoclassic style by a family of successful butchers.  Today this gallery is home to Christian Louboutin’s workshop as well as a Lute-maker.  Another of the most stunning is the Galerie Vivienne (1823), where the bookstore Librarie Jousseaume has operated since 1826.  The Hôtel Chopin is found in The Passage Jouffroy (1847).  Formerly the Hôtel des Familles, Frédéric Chopin and his mistress George Sand used to rendezvous here.

Other passages are less elegant and more economical for Paris wanderers and residents.  The Passage du Caire (1798) is the longest in Paris and until recently was heavily populated with fashion wholesalers.  The Passage Brady (1828) is known as a center for Indian and Pakistani food in Paris.

References

Boyer, Paula.  « Dans les passages couverts de Paris. »  La Croix 20 January 2019 : n. pag. Web.  9 February 2020.  https://www.la-croix.com/Culture/Art-de-vivre/passages-couverts-Paris-2019-01-20-1200996629

Canac, Sybil and Bruno Cabanis.  Passages couverts de Paris.  Issy-les-Moulineaux: Massin, 2011.

Galerie Vivienne.  By David Pendery – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=43508185

« Passages & Galeries. »    Web.  9 February 2020.  http://passagesetgaleries.fr/

 

Filed Under: Arts, Explore, Finds, France, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Centre College, Covered Passages, French class, Paris Architecture, Paris history, Passages of Paris

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Thank you for dropping by Creative Sanctuary! I am a French professor in Kentucky, grew up in Iowa, and I often travel internationally. This blog gathers, documents, and connects my passions--travel, cooking, stories, France, and tea culture. Bonne lecture! --Allison Connolly

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