• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Home
  • Travels
  • Stories
  • Cuisine
  • Finds
  • Tea Culture
  • My Versailles

Creative Sanctuary

French class

La Petite Ceinture: The Path That Unlocked Paris, Luke Stanton

August 22, 2020 By Allison

petite ceinture 1Could you ever imagine being able to circumnavigate the city of Paris much like the 16th century explorer Magellan circumnavigated the Earth? Back in the late 19th century, such a form of transportation was made possible through the construction of the Petite Ceinture during the era of the Second Empire in France. In English, it translates to “little belt”, a connotation which rather undersells the immense scope and importance that this railway network possessed.
Without it, the metro transportation system that serves millions of Parisians today may have never existed.

Throughout the 19th century, the Petite Ceinture provided a multitude of functions, whether it involved transporting capital, housing public transit, or even contributing to military defense by supplying goods to French soldiers. The 35-kilometer-long belt provided stops at 29 different stations and could complete a round trip in just under an hour and a half. The efficient layout of the tracks prevented interfering with traffic in the city, thus creating a separation between the urban and transportation industries of Paris.

Despite its closure to public transportation in the 1930s, some parts of the line continue to function today, whether it be near Victor Boulevard in the 15th arrondissement or the Porte de Clichy metro station in the 17th arrondissement. In addition, the northern section of the tracks are currently being used to transport trains between the major stations in North and East Paris. Only 21 kilometers of the Petite Ceinture remain, although traces of the railway are still present throughout different areas of Paris. If you adventure around Montrouge, for example, you may find yourself taking a stroll through the gardens when you discover air vents which used to belong to train tunnels. If you recall the name “Jardin de la dalle d’Ivry”, which translates to “Ivry slab garden”, you can probably guess that such places cover areas where the line used to run. In addition, tennis courts and housing projects make up a majority of the urbanisation projects that have taken place of the belt’s remains.

While the inevitable evolution of the metro system has overshadowed the legacy of the Petite Ceinture , there are still pieces of its history to be discovered throughout different areas of Paris. The railway network continues to leave its mark to this day, whether it be through old tracks or nature trails that take place on its former paths. One does not simply think of the Petite Ceinture as a more traditional mode of transportation without considering its layout as providing connectivity and cohesion to a city bounded by lights.

References
Bretelle, Bruno. «L’action d’une association : l’inventaire de la Petite Ceinture de Paris». Revue
d’histoire des chemins de fer , 40, 2009, pp. 91-107.

Enon, Claire. «La survie d’un délaissé urbain : la petite ceinture de Paris». Architecture,
aménagement de l’espace , 2017.

Photos
https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petite_Ceinture#/media/Ficheiro:Paris_16e_Petite_Ceinture_prome
nade.jpg

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Ideas, Improvise, Inspiration, Nature, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: French class, Paris history, Paris walk, Petite Ceinture, promenade

World War II Bunker Preserved in Paris, Kore Severance

August 20, 2020 By Allison

bunker 1Deep in the heart of Paris, under the Gare de l’Est exists a perfectly preserved relic from WWII. Tucked away behind a secret hatch on the platform rests a WWII bunker completely undisturbed by time and modernization. A set of tunnels was built under the train station to help transport luggage, but when the war began, it was transformed into a safe haven. The bunker was initially created by the French government but was unfinished before the German military took over France and occupied Paris in 1940. Both the French and German government had wanted to keep the trains at this station running because there are tracks that lead into Germany.

Within the solid concrete walls and armored door are the remains of equipment and furniture used during WWII as protection from a gas attack. Although, during WWII, gases were used less than during WWI and instead were replaced with air raid attacks. Historians do not believe the bunker could have survived an air raid attack, but thankfully these were not common in Paris. All of the machines and equipment are in perfect working condition and appear to be “new” from 1939.

As you first enter the double door that is armored against bullets and gas attacks, the cool 59°F air surrounds you. As you travel deeper into the bunker, you will find regulation rooms complete with desks and chairs, telephones, and timetables for 1930’s trains. There are not any food or dormitory spaces because the bunker was only meant to be utilized for 10 hours at a time. You can find control rooms and an engine room as well. There are a few bicycles connected to equipment, which were intended to be used to operate the air filtration system in the bunker if the electricity went out. Along the walls are some German inscriptions and bilingual plans, which is evidence of the German occupation and usage. Marie-Noëlle Polivo writes, « …chaque cheminot français avait derrière lui un homologue allemand. » In English, “[…each French railway worker had a German counterpart behind him.]”bunker 2

While there were other bunkers under train stations throughout Paris, most have been destroyed and dismantled. SNCF, the French national railway company, has promised to preserve this bunker however, only opening it during Heritage days and for other important events. Only 10 people are allowed in the bunker at one time and tickets sell out within minutes every year, as only around 220 people can go down inside the bunker each year. The tour guides worked hard with SNCF during 2019 to create tours that allow people to explore the bunker with virtual reality headsets.

References

https://immobilier.lefigaro.fr/article/sous-la-gare-de-l-est-un-bunker-preserve-depuis-80-ans_df8823ca-02bd-11e8-be42-2176aaed995f/

http://www.leparisien.fr/paris-75/journees-du-patrimoine-a-paris-la-sncf-ouvre-le-bunker-secret-de-la-gare-de-l-est-19-09-2019-8155530.php

https://www.neverends.net/le-bunker-sous-la-gare-de-lest/#prettyPhoto

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/wwii-bunker-under-gare-de-l-est

 

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Ideas, Improvise, Inspiration, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: bunker, French class, Gare de l'Est, Paris history, World War II history

The Catacombs of Paris, Amelia Lorrey

August 18, 2020 By Allison

catacombs entranceThe most macabre tourist attraction in Paris, the Catacombs, was initially a very practical solution to a serious 18th century sanitation problem. Cemeteries in Paris were overfull, so the remains needed to be moved to a separate, safer location underground. The skeletons were taken from many cemeteries around Paris, but primarily from les Saintes-Innocents, a very popular burial location for Parisians from the 12th to the 18th century.

The Catacombs are the final resting place for over six million Parisians throughout history. Beginning in 1785, remains were transferred to the Catacombs nightly for two years and sporadically for several years after that. The work of moving the remains had to be done at night, so that Parisians would not get upset and protest the removal of their deceased loved ones from their initial burial place. A priest accompanied the transfer of the bones and said a prayer for those who were being laid to rest once again. However, despite this care, the remains were dumped rather unceremoniously into the tunnels of the Catacombs.

It was not until Napoleon came to power that the bones were set up in the decorative way that they are today. Napoleon decided that the piles of Parisian bones sitting in tunnels beneath the city were not merely a practical sanitation solution but also a potential tourist attraction. Inspired by the famous catacombs in Rome, Napoleon appointed two men, Nicolas Frochot and Louis-Étienne Héricart de Thury, to turn the Catacombs into a site worth touring. Thus, the bones were arranged artistically and the design of the tunnels chosen very intentionally to appeal to tourists’ more morbid curiosity. One famous example of this is the sign above an entrance to the ossuary which reads: “Arrète! C’est ici l’empire de la mort” (Stop! This here is the empire of death”). These sort of dramatic touches might seem to an uniformed tourist to be the sign of a dark and ancient place, but in reality, they were a 19th century way to aggrandize the Catacomb’s spooky allure.catacombs bones

We might think of the Catacombs as an example of the Romantic or macabre fascinations of earlier ages. However, it is more truthful to understand them, as they stand today, as an intentional tourist attraction—and a very effective one at that. Over 150 years later, tourists in Paris are still happy to shell out €14 for a chance to visit Frochot and Héricart de Thury’s strangely beautiful underground ossuary.

References
“Histoire Des Catacombes.” Paris Pittoresque, www.paris-pittoresque.com/monuments/33.htm.

Karmelek, Mary. “You (Posthumously) Light up My Life.” Scientific American Blog Network,
Scientific American, 15 Apr. 2011, blogs.scientificamerican.com/anecdotes-from-thearchive/
you-posthumously-light-up-my-life/.

“L’histoire Du Site.” Les Catacombes De Paris, catacombes.paris.fr/lhistoire/lhistoire-du-site#.

“The Unbelievable Story of the Paris Catacombs.” Walks of Italy Blog, 6 Feb. 2017,
www.walksofitaly.com/blog/paris/paris-catacombs.

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Ideas, Inspiration, Uncategorized Tagged With: catacombs, Catacombs of Paris, Centre College, French class, Paris history, unlocking Paris, visit Paris

La Grande Mosquée de Paris, Hannah Ely

August 14, 2020 By Allison

grande mosquee de parisThis massive architectural wonder hides many secrets within its walls. Located in the Fifth Arondissement, the Mosque is constructed in the Moorish style, as seen by its arches, courtyards, intricate tiling, and lush gardens. The towering minaret reminds onlookers that the Parisian skyline boasts more than cathedral spires and the Eiffel tower. While impressive from the exterior, the true beauty of this structure lies within. The interior is linked by open-air courtyards surrounding a botanical garden and a bubbling fountain. La Grande Mosquée de Paris offers something for everyone: a school, library, restaurant, tearoom, prayer room, and bathhouse are all found within its walls. However, the Mosque’s worth extends beyond its physical features.

In the years following World War One, France wished to recognize the sacrifice of more than 100,000 French Muslims who lost their lives while fighting for the country. The Muslim Institute and its Mosque stand as a lasting symbol of Islamic culture and faith extending from Paris to the rest of Europe. It is designed to be not only a place of worship, but a haven for Muslims in need of aid. The relationship between the French government and the Muslim Institute serves as an important symbol for Franco-Muslim cooperation.

Undoubtedly, the Mosque as it stands today is the result of the efforts of many influential figures, but it benefited greatly from the vision and commitment of Si Kaddour Benghabrit. A man born in Algeria and granted citizenship in Morocco, Benghabrit worked tirelessly to forge Franco-Arabic ties through schools and as a diplomat and translator who proved to be invaluable to the French. Later in life, he worked to build the Mosque and the Institute from an idea into the structure it is today. From 1922 until 1945, Si Kaddour Benghabrit, in his capacity as founder and director, assured that it could be a place where Muslim students of Paris could interact with other Muslims. Additionally, under his guidance, La Grande Mosquée de Paris played an important role in offering protection to persecuted Jews during World War Two. Due to the Mosque’s location on La Bièvre (a waterway that extends throughout the city) and its extensive caves, the Mosque helped to save the lives of an estimated 1,700 people.

Today, La Grande Mosquée de Paris serves as an important cultural and religious site for Paris and beyond. As the French national identity struggles to incorporate Muslims and other minorities, the Mosque serves as a necessary reminder for the French public. The Mosque’s past and contemporary efforts demonstrate that, through compassion and the remembrance of history, France can reach past its divisions and create something as beautiful and powerful as La Grande Mosquée de Paris.

References

Grande Mosquée de Paris. (n.d.). Kaddour Ben Ghabrit. Retrieved 02 29, 2020, from Grande Mosquée de Paris Site Officiel: https://www.mosqueedeparis.net/linstitut-musulman/biographies/kaddour-ben-ghabrit/

La Grande Mosquée de Paris. (2020). Retrieved 03 02, 2020, from Paris Promeneurs: http://www.paris-promeneurs.com/Architecture-moderne/La-Grande-Mosquee-de-Paris

Les plus beaux lieux d’architecture mauresque à Paris. (2020). Retrieved 3 02, 2020, from Paris ZigZag: https://www.pariszigzag.fr/secret/lieux-insolites/les-plus-beaux-lieux-darchitecture-mauresque-a-paris

LPLT. (2008, 5 5). File: Patio grande mosquée de paris.jpg. Retrieved 3 9, 2020, from Wikimedia Commons: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Patio_grande_mosquee_de_paris.jpg

 

 

 

Filed Under: Arts, Asian, Explore, Finds, France, Inspiration, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Franco-Arabic studies, French class, Islamic culture, La Grande Mosquée de Paris, Si Kaddour Benghabrit

La Rue Crémieux: The Great Escape, Caroline Lancaster

August 10, 2020 By Allison

rue crémieuxIn the 12th arrondissement of Paris exists a colorful and refreshing line of English styled cottages. This line of 35 residential and private houses is located on the famous Rue Crémieux; named after Jewish lawyer and advocate for human rights, Adolphe Crémieux. Avid users of social media are very familiar with this pastel painted street as it is known as, “Instagram’s most favorite street”. With one search, #RueCremieux will locate 31,000 images that have this hashtag. Proof, this enchanting stretch of houses has captured the attention of many and has served as the perfect backdrop for an Instagram post.

Before “la rue” opened in 1865, the Imperial Arenas rested here holding 1,500 seats and served as a place of entertainment during the Second Empire in the 1850s. This time of opposition towards the government left room for people needing a place for entertainment. The Imperial Arenas filled that space and served as a getaway or great escape. The historical background reveals a cultural transition; it was once an arena for entertainment and now a social media phenomenon. La Rue Crémieux attracted as much attention then as it does now, and it seems as though the cobblestone street was destined to be an escape from reality. Now, it is most attractive for its green, blue, purple, yellow, and pink houses but also for its ability to offer a release from the hustle of Paris. The colorful setting, cobblestone street, and well maintained greenery takes its visitors out of Paris and offers them a new perspective. One that is brighter, newer, and bolder. This stands in contrast to the rest of the city of Paris.

Can the tourists and bloggers be blamed for finding this utopia to be captivating and exceptional?

It can be assumed that the people who live in the charming houses lining the street are forgotten or dismissed. However, the residents are not going down without a fight. There has been a recent protest because the residents are entirely annoyed with the constant attention on their homes. One resident vocalized that the street should be closed on evenings, weekends, and during “magic hour,” the time of day when the sun starts to sink and light is just right. The efforts made to slow down blogger traffic might be useless considering the effect this street has already had on Instagram. A public street versus private housing is a concept and debate that social media has completely disregarded; but when something is this refreshing and beautiful is there anyone to blame?

References

https://frenchmoments.eu/rue-cremieux-paris/

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/culture/culture-news/a26746451/paris-rue-cremieux-pastel-street-ban-instagram-influencers/

Filed Under: Explore, Finds, France, Ideas, Inspiration, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: cottages, French class, instafamous, Paris Architecture, Paris history, Rue Crémieux

Jean Michel Othoniel and La Rose du Louvre, Audrey Hey

August 6, 2020 By Allison

rose du louvreTucked between white marble works of centuries past in the Louvre’s Cour Puget resides Jean Michel Othoniel’s La Rose du Louvre, a painting series that only just recently made its way into the historic halls of the Louvre’s permanent collection, in October 2019. Othoniel’s work was commissioned to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei’s Pyramid that stands at the entrance to the museum.

Wedding of Marie de’ Medici to Henri IV The old master Peter Paul Rubens served as Othoniel’s inspiration for the flower that he hoped would become a symbol of the heart of French artistic tradition. Rubens’ work Wedding of Marie de’ Medici to Henri IV provided the very floral motifs on which La Rose du Louvre is based. The abstract representation of a rose seen in each panel carries a dual symbolism for Othoniel. Floral imagery is often packed with symbolic potential, and Othoniel’s project taps into this meaning in an effort to illuminate the subtleties that flowers have to offer. The choice of the rose shows intentionality, as Othoniel associates “la reine des fleurs” with “le roi des musées.” Symbolic of the Louvre’s position of cultural power and explanatory of some of the stories held within the museum’s vast corners, La Rose du Louvre took very little time to transition between its first presentation on May 25, 2019 and its permanent induction some five months later. Visually, the work is also at home, as its black ink on gold leaf creates a pleasing aesthetic as the work is flanked by its sculptural neighbors. Othoniel expounded on the symbolism of flowers inherent in La Rose du Louvre with his accompanying text Herbier Merveilleux, or The Secret Language of Flowers. Owing to Othoniel’s artistic dedication to floral forms as well as the familiarity he gained with the Louvre while working as warden, the text is a guide to the intricate meanings found within the flowers of the Louvre.

Jean Michel Othoniel was born in 1964 in Saint Étienne. The Paris-based artist has worked extensively within a variety of mediums, from glass to drawing. Visible in the abstract flowers that comprise La Rose du Louvre is a distinctive style that has become the trademark of many of Othoniel’s works. Othoniel has found prior success in museum exhibitions as well as public spaces such as in his subway station transformation, Le Kiosque des Noctambules. His entry into the Louvre marks a further step in his artistic career, as well as a sign of the Louvre’s further, ongoing commitment to the contemporary art world and its inclusion within the museum.

References

Chan. “Jean-Michel Othoniel Decodes the Secret Language of Flowers in the Louvre’s Collections.” Wallpaper*, Wallpaper*, 21 June 2019, www.wallpaper.com/art/jean-michel-othoniel-louvre-museum-paris.

“La Rose Du Louvre, De Jean-Michel Othoniel Entre Dans Les Collections Du Musée Du Louvre.” Louvre, 3 Jan. 2020, presse.louvre.fr/emla-rose-du-louvre-embr-de-jean-michel-othonielbr-entre-dans-les-collections-du-musee-du-louvre/.

Uzik. “Biographie – Othoniel – Othoniel Studio.” Othoniel, 1 Jan. 2019, www.othoniel.fr/fr/othoniel/biographie.

Filed Under: Antiquing, Arts, Explore, Finds, France, Inspiration, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Class blog, French class, Jean Michel Othoniel, Le Louvre, Musée du Louvre, Peter Paul Rubens, rose

The Oldest Home in Paris, Joshua Hay

August 2, 2020 By Allison

auberge Nicolas FlamelToday, Nicolas Flamel may be best known as the supposedly immortal philosopher who plays a key role in the Harry Potter franchise. In real life, his house at 51 rue de Montmorency – la maison de Nicolas Flamel – has gained an immortality of its own as the oldest still-standing house in Paris.

The façade of the building is made up of several doors and windows interspersed with beautifully carved columns. In 1407, when the house was first constructed, one would have been able to see a carving of Nicolas Flamel himself standing next to Jesus Christ. Today, this image has faded away. One can still see ornate images of saints and angels as well as the initials “N.F.”

As for why Nicolas Flamel built the house, the large Middle French inscription running the length of the building’s face provides an answer: We working men and women who live on the porch of this house constructed in the year of our lord 1407 are required by law to say each day one Our Father and one Hail Mary in prayer to our God whose grace pardons our trespasses. Deeply religious and with a bevy of wealth, Nicolas Flamel and his wife Pernelle constructed homes free for use by the city’s poor, with the only requirement being that these people pray to God each day.

The house has lived many lives in the centuries after. At the start of the 20th century, a restoration project was given blessing to repair the building and bring the surviving carvings on the outside walls back to life. The home was named a historical site in 1911. During World War 2, it briefly served as a brothel. In the 80s, it spent time as a disco. Today, one can visit the house of Nicolas Flamel for a delicious meal from the restaurant which operates out of its ground floor.

Beginning in the 17th century, rumors caused by faked manuscripts about Nicolas Flamel would give him a reputation as an alchemist who created the immortality-giving Elixir of Life and was able to create the philosopher’s stone which turns lead to gold. This is certainly the impression the great novelist Victor Hugo had of Flamel, as Hugo became convinced Flamel had visited him in a séance and described what life on Mercury looked like – he also incorporated the alchemist as a worldly detail in his monumental Notre Dame de Paris. This Flamel is unknowable and greedy, always lusting for more gold and more life, yet in the house of Nicolas Flamel, one sees a man of deep selflessness who found a better sort of immortality by reaching out and helping the poor of his city.

References

« La plus vieille maison de Paris » Paris ZigZag : n. pag. Web. 2 Mars 2020. https://www.pariszigzag.fr/secret/histoire–insolite–paris/la–plus–vieille–maison–de–paris

« Histoire de la plus vieille maison de Paris. » Vivre Paris 21 Février 2019 : n. pag. Web. 2 Mars 2020. https://vivreparis.fr/histoire-de-la-plus-vieille-maison-de-paris/

“Victor Huge and Nicolas Flamel.” Victor Hugo Central. n. pag. Web. 11 March 2020. http://www.gavroche.org/vhugo/flamel.shtml

Image Attribution

Guilhem Vellut from Paris, France / CC BY (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0). 11 March 2020. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Auberge_Nicolas_Flamel,_Paris_11_February_2017.jpg

Filed Under: Arts, Explore, Finds, France, Improvise, Inspiration, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Auberge Nicolas Flamel, charity, French class, historic homes, historic properties, Nicolas Flamel, Paris, Paris history

The Covered Passages of Paris

July 25, 2020 By Allison

galerie vivienneIn spring 2020, my students and I embarked on an exploration of the City of Lights in our Unlocking Paris class.  Each student investigated an aspect of Paris that might not be known to the typical tourist–artistic movements, architecture, and monuments. They then composed blog posts dedicated to their subject, went through peer editing, and finally revisions.  Over the next month, I will feature their insightful, lively work on Creative Sanctuary.  Our hope is to share beautiful Paris with our readers.  I launch the series with my post on Paris’ Covered Passages.  

Airy, glass-ceilinged passages make for some of the most charming and pleasant Paris strolls.  Although the first passages were wooden and appeared at the end of the 18th century, most of them were constructed in the first half of the 19th century.  At the time, the layout of Paris remained essentially medieval—streets were narrow and somewhat difficult to navigate.  The construction of covered passages, connecting two streets and reserved for pedestrians, allowed for easier circulation and provided shelter from inclement weather.  Aesthetically pleasing, the privately owned passages boasted mosaics, murals, spiral staircases, and filtered light.  Covered passages became the height of fashion and of commerce, housing boutiques, restaurants, and even hotels!

Before the 1860s and Haussmann’s urbanization of Paris, there were 55 covered passages.  With the arrival of train stations, department stores and the widening of city streets, they fell out of favor and many were victim to destruction.  Today, 17 covered passages and “galleries” remain.  Especially elegant is the Galerie Vero-Dodat (1826), built in the neoclassic style by a family of successful butchers.  Today this gallery is home to Christian Louboutin’s workshop as well as a Lute-maker.  Another of the most stunning is the Galerie Vivienne (1823), where the bookstore Librarie Jousseaume has operated since 1826.  The Hôtel Chopin is found in The Passage Jouffroy (1847).  Formerly the Hôtel des Familles, Frédéric Chopin and his mistress George Sand used to rendezvous here.

Other passages are less elegant and more economical for Paris wanderers and residents.  The Passage du Caire (1798) is the longest in Paris and until recently was heavily populated with fashion wholesalers.  The Passage Brady (1828) is known as a center for Indian and Pakistani food in Paris.

References

Boyer, Paula.  « Dans les passages couverts de Paris. »  La Croix 20 January 2019 : n. pag. Web.  9 February 2020.  https://www.la-croix.com/Culture/Art-de-vivre/passages-couverts-Paris-2019-01-20-1200996629

Canac, Sybil and Bruno Cabanis.  Passages couverts de Paris.  Issy-les-Moulineaux: Massin, 2011.

Galerie Vivienne.  By David Pendery – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=43508185

« Passages & Galeries. »    Web.  9 February 2020.  http://passagesetgaleries.fr/

 

Filed Under: Arts, Explore, Finds, France, Stories, Travel, Travels, Uncategorized Tagged With: Centre College, Covered Passages, French class, Paris Architecture, Paris history, Passages of Paris

Primary Sidebar

Thank you for dropping by Creative Sanctuary! I am a French professor in Kentucky, grew up in Iowa, and I often travel internationally. This blog gathers, documents, and connects my passions--travel, cooking, stories, France, and tea culture. Bonne lecture! --Allison Connolly

My Book, Published by Roman & Littlefield

  • Instagram
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Stay in the Creative Sanctuary loop!

Lately…

  • I Finally Visited Marie Antoinette’s Library
  • Brasserie du Théâtre Montansier
  • Embody
  • Lying About Your Age
  • Grace Note

Creative Archives

Copyright © 2025 Allison Connolly