Paris Architecture

In the 12th arrondissement of Paris exists a colorful and refreshing line of English styled cottages. This line of 35 residential and private houses is located on the famous Rue Crémieux; named after Jewish lawyer and advocate for human rights, Adolphe Crémieux. Avid users of social media are very familiar with this pastel painted street as it is known as, “Instagram’s most favorite street”. With one search, #RueCremieux will locate 31,000 images that have this hashtag. Proof, this enchanting stretch of houses has captured the attention of many and has served as the perfect backdrop for an Instagram post.

Before “la rue” opened in 1865, the Imperial Arenas rested here holding 1,500 seats and served as a place of entertainment during the Second Empire in the 1850s. This time of opposition towards the government left room for people needing a place for entertainment. The Imperial Arenas filled that space and served as a getaway or great escape. The historical background reveals a cultural transition; it was once an arena for entertainment and now a social media phenomenon. La Rue Crémieux attracted as much attention then as it does now, and it seems as though the cobblestone street was destined to be an escape from reality. Now, it is most attractive for its green, blue, purple, yellow, and pink houses but also for its ability to offer a release from the hustle of Paris. The colorful setting, cobblestone street, and well maintained greenery takes its visitors out of Paris and offers them a new perspective. One that is brighter, newer, and bolder. This stands in contrast to the rest of the city of Paris.

Can the tourists and bloggers be blamed for finding this utopia to be captivating and exceptional?

It can be assumed that the people who live in the charming houses lining the street are forgotten or dismissed. However, the residents are not going down without a fight. There has been a recent protest because the residents are entirely annoyed with the constant attention on their homes. One resident vocalized that the street should be closed on evenings, weekends, and during “magic hour,” the time of day when the sun starts to sink and light is just right. The efforts made to slow down blogger traffic might be useless considering the effect this street has already had on Instagram. A public street versus private housing is a concept and debate that social media has completely disregarded; but when something is this refreshing and beautiful is there anyone to blame?

References

https://frenchmoments.eu/rue-cremieux-paris/

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/culture/culture-news/a26746451/paris-rue-cremieux-pastel-street-ban-instagram-influencers/

In spring 2020, my students and I embarked on an exploration of the City of Lights in our Unlocking Paris class. Each student investigated an aspect of Paris that might not be known to the typical tourist–artistic movements, architecture, and monuments. They then composed blog posts dedicated to their subject, went through peer editing, and finally revisions. Over the next month, I will feature their insightful, lively work on Creative Sanctuary. Our hope is to share beautiful Paris with our readers. I launch the series with my post on Paris’ Covered Passages.

Airy, glass-ceilinged passages make for some of the most charming and pleasant Paris strolls. Although the first passages were wooden and appeared at the end of the 18^th century, most of them were constructed in the first half of the 19^th century. At the time, the layout of Paris remained essentially medieval—streets were narrow and somewhat difficult to navigate. The construction of covered passages, connecting two streets and reserved for pedestrians, allowed for easier circulation and provided shelter from inclement weather. Aesthetically pleasing, the privately owned passages boasted mosaics, murals, spiral staircases, and filtered light. Covered passages became the height of fashion and of commerce, housing boutiques, restaurants, and even hotels!

Before the 1860s and Haussmann’s urbanization of Paris, there were 55 covered passages. With the arrival of train stations, department stores and the widening of city streets, they fell out of favor and many were victim to destruction. Today, 17 covered passages and “galleries” remain. Especially elegant is the Galerie Vero-Dodat (1826), built in the neoclassic style by a family of successful butchers. Today this gallery is home to Christian Louboutin’s workshop as well as a Lute-maker. Another of the most stunning is the Galerie Vivienne (1823), where the bookstore Librarie Jousseaume has operated since 1826. The Hôtel Chopin is found in The Passage Jouffroy (1847). Formerly the Hôtel des Familles, Frédéric Chopin and his mistress George Sand used to rendezvous here.

Other passages are less elegant and more economical for Paris wanderers and residents. The Passage du Caire (1798) is the longest in Paris and until recently was heavily populated with fashion wholesalers. The Passage Brady (1828) is known as a center for Indian and Pakistani food in Paris.

References

Boyer, Paula. « Dans les passages couverts de Paris. » La Croix 20 January 2019 : n. pag. Web. 9 February 2020. https://www.la-croix.com/Culture/Art-de-vivre/passages-couverts-Paris-2019-01-20-1200996629

Canac, Sybil and Bruno Cabanis. Passages couverts de Paris. Issy-les-Moulineaux: Massin, 2011.

Galerie Vivienne. By David Pendery – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=43508185

« Passages & Galeries. » Web. 9 February 2020. http://passagesetgaleries.fr/

La Rue Crémieux: The Great Escape, Caroline Lancaster

The Covered Passages of Paris