Paris walk

Could you ever imagine being able to circumnavigate the city of Paris much like the 16th century explorer Magellan circumnavigated the Earth? Back in the late 19th century, such a form of transportation was made possible through the construction of the Petite Ceinture during the era of the Second Empire in France. In English, it translates to “little belt”, a connotation which rather undersells the immense scope and importance that this railway network possessed.
Without it, the metro transportation system that serves millions of Parisians today may have never existed.

Throughout the 19th century, the Petite Ceinture provided a multitude of functions, whether it involved transporting capital, housing public transit, or even contributing to military defense by supplying goods to French soldiers. The 35-kilometer-long belt provided stops at 29 different stations and could complete a round trip in just under an hour and a half. The efficient layout of the tracks prevented interfering with traffic in the city, thus creating a separation between the urban and transportation industries of Paris.

Despite its closure to public transportation in the 1930s, some parts of the line continue to function today, whether it be near Victor Boulevard in the 15th arrondissement or the Porte de Clichy metro station in the 17th arrondissement. In addition, the northern section of the tracks are currently being used to transport trains between the major stations in North and East Paris. Only 21 kilometers of the Petite Ceinture remain, although traces of the railway are still present throughout different areas of Paris. If you adventure around Montrouge, for example, you may find yourself taking a stroll through the gardens when you discover air vents which used to belong to train tunnels. If you recall the name “Jardin de la dalle d’Ivry”, which translates to “Ivry slab garden”, you can probably guess that such places cover areas where the line used to run. In addition, tennis courts and housing projects make up a majority of the urbanisation projects that have taken place of the belt’s remains.

While the inevitable evolution of the metro system has overshadowed the legacy of the Petite Ceinture , there are still pieces of its history to be discovered throughout different areas of Paris. The railway network continues to leave its mark to this day, whether it be through old tracks or nature trails that take place on its former paths. One does not simply think of the Petite Ceinture as a more traditional mode of transportation without considering its layout as providing connectivity and cohesion to a city bounded by lights.

References
Bretelle, Bruno. «L’action d’une association : l’inventaire de la Petite Ceinture de Paris». Revue
d’histoire des chemins de fer , 40, 2009, pp. 91-107.

Enon, Claire. «La survie d’un délaissé urbain : la petite ceinture de Paris». Architecture,
aménagement de l’espace , 2017.

Photos
https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petite_Ceinture#/media/Ficheiro:Paris_16e_Petite_Ceinture_prome
nade.jpg

You’re strolling on a Sunday afternoon through the 14th arrondissement. As you pass by Pharmacie Didot-Pernety, you make a turn and enter another world. This stretch of plant-adorned, pastel-painted, bicycle-embellished cobblestone is so far from the grime-covered, metro-lined, Seine-smelling city you left behind. You have discovered the paysan within Paris. Welcome to the Rue des Thermopyles.

The street finds its name in an ancient history. Its characteristic narrowness reminded an old quill-wielding Parisian of the tapered passages of the 450 B.C.E. Battle of Thermopylae. And so, this Greek nomenclature wrote its way into the French landscape. The Rue des Thermopyles has been described as a place which lingers in the past and exists outside of the Parisian present. It is the pastoral charm and tranquility of this street which garnered local attention when it was released from private control and made public in 1925. Due to this history, the residential area remains comparatively free of the cafés and shops which clutter every other Parisian street. For a brief 280-meter stretch, your surroundings convince you that you must be in the French countryside.

Yet, on your Sunday afternoon meander, you might notice the ways in which modernity is altering the street’s vintage character. In between the blue, pink and yellow flower boxes, white walls have become the collective canvases for the community’s artists. Miss Tic, the Parisian-born daughter of a Tunisian immigrant and French farmer, is a celebrated feminist graffitist whose compelling work contrasts the pleasant scene of the Rue des Thermopyles. The black-and-white image of a woman with a sword and shield is captioned: “Dépasser le passé. Toute une histoire.” This striking call to arms finds great contrast within its fairytale-like environment.

As you investigate the neighborhood’s street art, be careful! You might accidentally fall prey to the roaming Instagrammer searching the neighborhood for the perfect background to post. The Rue des Thermopyles has become quite the Internet attraction in recent years because of its simultaneous accessibility and foreignness. Just search #ruedesthermopyles, and see for yourself. Is that the back of your head next to the purple heart-shaped door?

References

“La rue des Thermopyles, le charme bucolique du 14e.” Paris Zig Zag. https://www.pariszigzag.fr/balades-excursions/balade-paris/rue-des-thermopyles-le-charme-bucolique-du-14eme

“Paris: Rue des Thermopyles, promenade fleurie et souvenirs du village de Plaisance – XIVème.” Paris la Douce. 1 April 2017. https://www.parisladouce.com/2017/04/paris-la-rue-des-thermopyles-promenade.html.

“Qui est Miss Tic ? Artiste street art ou féministe ?” slave 2.0, 23 January 2017. https://www.slave2point0.com/2017/01/23/qui-est-miss-tic-artiste-street-art-ou-f%C3%A9ministe/.

Vellut, Guilhem. “Rue des Thermopyles @ Paris.” Wikimedia, 14 June 2017. Image. https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:Search&limit=20&offset=20&profile=default&search=rue+des+thermopyles&advancedSearch-current=%7B%7D&ns0=1&ns6=1&ns12=1&ns14=1&ns100=1&ns106=1#/media/File:Rue_des_Thermopyles_@_Paris_(35182129971).jpg.

La Petite Ceinture: The Path That Unlocked Paris, Luke Stanton

Rue des Thermopyles: Paris’ Pastoral Paradox, Meg Whelan