Sky

Le Vieux Versailles, or Old Versailles, is not the Royal City’s oldest neighborhood. The medieval village acquired by King Louis XIII once stood there, but most of it was destroyed in the 17^th century. Occupying the streets to the south-east of the Château, Old Versailles is ideal for meandering and admiring elegant 17^th and 18^th century architecture: sober grey and beige stone into which decorative medallions, garland, and faces are carved, cast iron railings and balconies, touches of blue and ochre that draw our eyes up the buildings and to the sky.

For history lovers, a visit to La Salle du Jeu de Paume is a must. Constructed by the royal family in 1686, the Salle was one of the first sporting centers in France. A precursor to tennis, “palm ball” was invented in France and initially played without racquets. In 1789, 578 Frenchmen met in this spacious room, declared themselves to be the National Assembly, and swore to stay together until they had drafted a constitution for France. Now known as the “Tennis Court Oath”, this moment was key in the lead up to the French Revolution. The Salle is open for visits on Tuesday-Sunday afternoons from 2-5:30. Admission is free.

Relatively new to the neighborhood, the Cour des Senteurs is a calm courtyard dedicated to the art of perfume and upscale shopping. The Maison des Parfums offers a simple introduction to the history of perfume, and the quiet urban garden offers respite from a day of touring. Admission is free to both. Michelin starred restaurant La Table du 11 is located in the courtyard; reservations are essential.

The bustling pedestrian zone rue de Satory offers a number of dining options. A future post will list some of the rue de Satory’s best restaurants.

Allison’s Tips
Access: The Vieux Versailles quarter borders the Château property. Standing in the Place des Armes with your back to the Château, the neighborhood will be behind you and to your right.

Allow 1-3 hours to explore Vieux Versailles.

As you stroll through the area, there is no need to follow a prescribed route. Rather, let brown tourist signage serve as a loose guide: La Cour des Senteurs, La Salle du Jeu de Paume, La rue Satory.

“Space is the breath of art.”
–Frank Lloyd Wright

Sometimes big cities suffocate me. It seems that every inch of space is occupied by buildings, kiosks, and concrete. I often find myself needing more green and more sky.

My recent trip to New York was bitterly cold, and the wind was brutal. Venturing out was a process and a challenge, but my walks were freeing—the icy wind invigorating, the snowflakes dreamy. Ice and snow dotted grey-green Central Park. I easily weaved my way through the crowds on 5^th avenue, stumbled into a toasty bookstore when my toes were too cold, and late one afternoon, found a French bistro serving soupe au pistou.

The constant chill of those days froze my senseless, minor worries, and the wind then blew them away. Amongst and between the traffic and skyscrapers, I reclaimed my inner spaciousness. New York gave breath to an elegant artfulness that refreshed and reset my own desire to create. I bring home color, texture, light, and sky.

Inspirations

Afternoon Tea in Astor Court

Pablo Picasso’s Bird on a Tree at the Guggenheim

Odilon Redon’s Pandora at the Met

Mozart and Tchaikovsky at Lincoln Center