Versailles tourism

When Louis XVI presented le Petit Trianon Château to his wife Marie-Antoinette in 1774, he gave her a master key encrusted in diamonds.[1] Although she was the first resident of the Château, it had been commissioned by her father-in-law Louis XV for his mistress Madame du Barry. After his death, Madame du Barry was banished from the court, never having inhabited her Petit Trianon. The Château has always been a space dominated by women. After Madame du Barry and Marie-Antoinette were forced to abandon the estate, other remarkable women followed. Napoleon I’s sister Princess Pauline Borghèse spent time there, and after a major restoration, le Petit Trianon was later presented to his second wife Marie-Louise (who happened to be Marie-Antoinette’s great-niece). In 1867, Napoleon III’s wife the Empress Eugénie transformed the Château into a museum honoring Marie-Antoinette.

Conceived as a refuge for happiness, le Petit Trianon offered Marie-Antoinette respite from the demands of the court. Although sumptuous and extravagant, her château feels cozy next to its neighbor le Grand Trianon and to the even grander Château de Versailles. Its smaller scale makes it inviting, and the bright floral fabrics infuse the space with a femininity that is absent in other areas of the Domain.

The gardens of le Petit Trianon are extensive and varied. The French Garden and French Pavilion are right outside the Château. The garden is orderly and symmetrical, and its seasonal flowers are glorious. Beyond the French Garden is the Queen’s Garden. Inspired by English gardens, it has meandering pathways, lakes, a belvedere, a Greek style Temple of Love, and a grotto. After the rambling Queen’s Garden lies The Queen’s Hamlet, a rustic-looking reproduction of a Norman village whose recent restoration was sponsored by Dior. Visits of the interiors of the buildings are by reservation only, in French, and all visitors are required to wear special slippers!

With limited time in Versailles, should you even venture to Marie Antoinette’s château? Without a doubt, yes. In fact, you should spend an extra half-day in Versailles so that you can have a leisurely visit of Marie Antoinette’s château and gardens. Louis XIV’s golden palace draws people to Versailles, but Marie Antoinette’s estate is slightly less crowded and therefore much calmer. If you visit France with daughters, nieces, or granddaughters, le Petit Trianon gives them a glimpse of a world in which women had a degree of agency and power. In addition, the stunning gardens and Queen’s Hamlet alone are worth an afternoon visit.

If you are on the fence about carving out time for a visit of Marie Antionette’s estate or if you want to treat yourself to a visual feast, check out Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antionette (2006). The film contains a number of historical inaccuracies, but the scenes shot at le Petit Trianon depict the Château as the refuge of happiness intended by its most famous mistress.

Allison’s Tips

Access: Le Petit Trianon is 30 minutes on foot from the Château de Versailles or 20 minutes on the Petit Train. Visitors can also access le Petit Trianon from the Boulevard de la Reine.

Hours: 12:00-5:30, Tuesday-Sunday

Tickets: Visit of the Trianon Estates is included in the Passeport tickets (20-27€) . Otherwise, tickets cost 12€. Children under 18 are free. Visit of the gardens is included with admission.

For a detailed introduction to Le Petit Trianon, read Jérémie Benoît’s guide The Petit Trianon: Marie-Antionette’s Château

[1] The Petit Trianon: Marie Antionette’s Château, by Jérémie Benoît

Le Vieux Versailles, or Old Versailles, is not the Royal City’s oldest neighborhood. The medieval village acquired by King Louis XIII once stood there, but most of it was destroyed in the 17^th century. Occupying the streets to the south-east of the Château, Old Versailles is ideal for meandering and admiring elegant 17^th and 18^th century architecture: sober grey and beige stone into which decorative medallions, garland, and faces are carved, cast iron railings and balconies, touches of blue and ochre that draw our eyes up the buildings and to the sky.

For history lovers, a visit to La Salle du Jeu de Paume is a must. Constructed by the royal family in 1686, the Salle was one of the first sporting centers in France. A precursor to tennis, “palm ball” was invented in France and initially played without racquets. In 1789, 578 Frenchmen met in this spacious room, declared themselves to be the National Assembly, and swore to stay together until they had drafted a constitution for France. Now known as the “Tennis Court Oath”, this moment was key in the lead up to the French Revolution. The Salle is open for visits on Tuesday-Sunday afternoons from 2-5:30. Admission is free.

Relatively new to the neighborhood, the Cour des Senteurs is a calm courtyard dedicated to the art of perfume and upscale shopping. The Maison des Parfums offers a simple introduction to the history of perfume, and the quiet urban garden offers respite from a day of touring. Admission is free to both. Michelin starred restaurant La Table du 11 is located in the courtyard; reservations are essential.

The bustling pedestrian zone rue de Satory offers a number of dining options. A future post will list some of the rue de Satory’s best restaurants.

Allison’s Tips
Access: The Vieux Versailles quarter borders the Château property. Standing in the Place des Armes with your back to the Château, the neighborhood will be behind you and to your right.

Allow 1-3 hours to explore Vieux Versailles.

As you stroll through the area, there is no need to follow a prescribed route. Rather, let brown tourist signage serve as a loose guide: La Cour des Senteurs, La Salle du Jeu de Paume, La rue Satory.